sunday, october 5th, 2008

I recently picked up a fetching little container of fifteen quail eggs from the Reading Terminal Market in Philadelphia. The mottled brown shells resemble cow spots and the yolks are no bigger than a penny. Quail eggs are so aesthetically appealing that it's hard to bust the tiny shells open without regret, but the quail egg itself is such a sunny gift that regrets are soon replaced with possibility. I decided to keep the preparation of my bitsy egg with the cheerful disposition as simple as possible in order to showcase its diminutive size. This is the ballet dancer of the egg world and her petite frame turns all the average sized eggs at the ball into shy wallflowers.

I paired my lovely, gently fried quail egg with adzuki beans, roasted tomatoes, garlic, red onions and bacon, but what makes this concoction sing (albeit in a velvety baritone) is the addition of pumpkin seed oil. This intensely nutty oil is reminiscent of pistachio oil and shares the same green hue. The color is dark and moody akin to what tree leaves look like in the deepest corners of a forest just before the sun goes down. The stoic shade masks the punch of authoritative flavor this oil delivers. It's one of the rare varieties that would taste just as good alone as it does woven through the fabric of a dish.

Full disclosure is necessary in my promotion of the wonders of pumpkin seed oil. A few months ago I started working at Art Culinaire Magazine. One of the many virtues of my job is that we sell pumpkin seed oil from Austria. Until I began working at the magazine I'd never tasted the oil, but I'm now determined to have a bottle at my disposal at all times. I'm not promoting it because I work at AC. I wouldn't mention it at all were it not for its sublime flavor and numerous health benefits. Not only is it rich in Vitamins E, A and zinc and high in omega 3 and 6, it also works wonders for urinary tract infections and promotes a healthy prostate.

It seems our humble oil is as virtuous as our quail egg is lovely and I thought they'd make a charismatic couple. Assisted by roasted grape tomatoes, garlic and red onions tucked into a snug bed of crunchy bacon and fruity adzuki beans, this recipe makes a perfect side dish for fall.  After all, is there any oil more ideal for October than one derived from a pumpkin patch?

Lovely little quail eggs

Unabashedly green pumpkin seed oil

Adzuki Beans with Roasted Tomatoes, Bacon, Quail Egg and Pumpkin Seed Oil
For the adzuki beans:
2 cups grape tomatoes
4 garlic cloves, peeled and finely chopped
1/2 red onion, peeled and sliced
1 tablespoon pumpkin seed oil, plus additional as needed
2 cups chicken stock
1 cup dry white wine
1 cup adzuki beans, rinsed

4 strips bacon, fried and crumbled
salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

To serve:
1 teaspoon olive oil
4 quail eggs
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

For the adzuki beans:
1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees. In bowl, toss together tomatoes, garlic, onion and pumpkin seed oil. Season with salt and pepper. Bake until roasted, about 25 minutes.
2. In saucepan, combine chicken stock, wine and adzuki beans. Bring liquid to a boil, cover, reduce heat and gently simmer until beans have absorbed all the liquid and are tender, about 40 minutes. Remove from heat and season with salt and pepper.
In bowl, combine roasted vegetables, bacon and beans and gently mix to combine.

To serve:
3. In small saute pan over medium heat, coat bottom of pan with oil. When pan is hot, crack quail egg into oil and fry to desired doneness. In bowl, place adzuki bean mixture and drizzle with pumpkin seed oil. Top with fried quail egg and season with sea salt and pepper.

Yield: 4 servings