friday, may 18th, 2007

Chives are the first thing in our garden to bravely poke up through the clutter of winter that has gathered above them. Before the garden has even been turned, their bright green stalks find their way through the leaves and once they are tall enough, cap themselves with a cheerful violet pom-pom of a flower that announces the waking of the hibernating ground and all the treats slumbering within. Year after year chives dutifully return and remain throughout the duration of summer, sticking it out until early autumn. Even as everything else falls back into the earth and tucks in for the winter, the resilient, humble chive shivers in the wind and provides us with the last bit of garden-plucked goodness. Generous, resilient, patient, humble. The chive is always a welcome friend in the kitchen.

The smallest member of the Allium, or onion, family, chives are the only species of onion indigenous to the old world and the new. Native to Asia, Europe and North America, the chive, like all onions, belongs to the lily family. What distinguishes  Allium are their sulfur compounds that lend the root vegetables their pungent taste and potent odor. Among the brood, chives contain the least amount of sulfur and therefore have the mildest flavor. This makes them an ideal garnish or element in a dish where a pronounced onion note is not desired.

Due to their odor, members of the poor onion family have always had a dubious reputation in history. A Muslim legend says that when Satan left the Garden of Eden, garlic sprang up in the footprint of his left foot, onions in the right. While chives escaped a Garden of Eden mention, they have frequently been used throughout history to ward off evil spirits. During the Middle Ages, Eastern Europeans hung bunches of chives around their homes to keep demons at bay. Romanian gypsies frequently incorporated chives into their fortune telling rituals.

Chives have been used in various capacities for millennia. The first documented use of them dates back 5,000 years to China where they were used in culinary preparations as well as for medicinal purposes. The Romans also believed in the virtue of chives as a health remedy and used it to treat sunburns and soar throats as well as for a diuretic and to increase blood circulation. They weren't far off the mark. The sulfur compounds in chives are beneficial to blood circulation as well as being beneficial to the respiratory and digestive systems. Chives also contain high levels of vitamins A & C in addition to potassium, iron, magnesium and folic acid.

Chives are also an excellent pest repellant which explains why they are often planted on garden borders in order to keep the critters away from the interior goodies. Chives are also an excellent bug repellent. To prepare a natural chive insect repellent, boil them in water for ten to fifteen minutes. Once the water is infused with the chive essence, discard the chives and transfer the water to a spray bottle. It is not advised to spray yourself with it unless your desire is to smell like a French bistro (and really, who doesn't desire this every once in a while?). Instead, mist the area where people have gathered as a means of discouraging bugs.

The English name chive comes from its French name cive which is derived from the Latin word for onion, cepa. The German word for chive is Schnittlauch which translates as cuttable leek. Chives have been popular in culinary preparations for thousands of years. They are an ingredient in the traditional French herb blend Fine Herbs which also includes parsley, chervil and tarragon. They're also wonderful when incorporated into herb butters, vinegars, oils, dips and spreads.

Chives are easy to grow both in the garden or an indoor pot, making them an ideal herb to keep in an apartment window box. They thrive in full sun and prefer to be kept moist. Cut their tips down an inch or two when they begin to look ragged as this will encourage new growth. Chives lose much of their flavor as they dry and therefore should be frozen if cut instead of dried. To preserve cut chives, sprinkle snipped segments into an ice cube tray, fill the tray with water and freeze. In the dead of winter, when a craving for something garden-fresh emerges, thaw out a cube or two, pat the chives dry and sprinkle spring over the plate.

In this recipe, I incorporated the first chives of the season into a simple, old-fashioned potato salad. I used blue potatoes because I like the sweetness they lend to the salad and their cheerful blue color makes everything pop. I incorporated the chive stem into this salad but I also used the delicate violet petals as a garnish. They're just as delicious as the stem and add a whimsical finish.

I also made my own mayonnaise for this salad and while this is never required, there is nothing like the fresh eggy goodness of hand-whipped mayonnaise. It was one of the first things we prepared in culinary school and I remember exactly what I was thinking as my arm grew numb from whisking, "Why are we working this hard for mayonnaise?" With my first spoonful I knew exactly why. It's sublime. Compared to the jiggly stuff crammed into a jar at the supermarket, it's another animal all-together. While the first attempt might give you a bit of tennis elbow, that extra bit of effort is highly recommended. Look on the bright side, it's a great work-out too. Mayonnaise it incredibly easy to prepare and a step-by-step photo tutorial follows. The main key to success is that once the first ingredients are blended, it's vital to pay attention to the first drop of oil that hits the bowl. It must be immediately whisked into the base in order to ensure a proper emulsion. After that, let the oil stream in and prepare yourself for mayonnaise nirvana.

While this is a traditional potato salad, the chives, blue potatoes, hard-boiled eggs and fresh mayonnaise make it something special. I boil the potatoes in their skins because it prevents them from becoming water-logged and also because I like the extra layer of texture the skins add to the salad. Start the potatoes in cold water and let the water come to a boil while the potato is in the pot as it will prevent the outside from finishing before the inside.

It's always satisfying to sprinkle the first spring chives into a recipe. Humble, tasty and dependable, fresh chives are a welcome companion to virtually any savory spring dish.

To Make Mayonnaise 

A mayonnaise is an emulsion, therefore, a base is first created and then finished with oil.

To prepare the base combine an egg yolk, a teaspoon of mustard, a tablespoon of acid such as vinegar or lemon juice, 1/8 teaspoon of salt and 1/8 teaspoon of sugar.

Whisk to combine these ingredients.

In a thin, slow, steady stream while whisking vigorously, add approximately 1 cup of olive oil or other salad oil. It is crucial that the base be whisked from the first moment the oil touches it, and is especially crucial during the first few drops of oil incorporation.

After the oil is incorporated, continue to whisk until a mayonnaise consistency is achieved.

Adjust flavor with salt and acid. Prepare yourself, the whisking process can tire the arm but homemade mayonnaise is delicious and definitely worth the effort.

As a quick variation, prepare an aioli by adding pureed garlic to the base. Once you get the hang of it, begin experimenting with other seasoning additions. you will be amazed by how versatile and tasty home made mayonnaise and all its variations can be. These instructions our from the How To Do Things Page.

Blue Potato Spring Chive Salad

2 pounds blue potatoes, or potatoes of preference

3 tablespoons cider vinegar
1 1/2 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon dijon mustard
1/2 cup fresh chives, chopped
3/4 cup celery, chopped
4 hard boiled eggs, rough chop
1 cup mayonnaise
black pepper, to taste 

1. In a large, heavy sauce pan, cover potatoes with well-salted cold water by about two inches and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer until the potatoes are just tender, about 20-25 minutes. Drain and cool slightly.

2. As the potatoes cook, in a bowl, whisk together vinegar and salt until the salt dissolves.

3. When potatoes are cool enough to handle cut them into one inch pieces, placing them in the bowl of salted vinegar as they are cut. With a rubber spatula, toss gently until the potatoes are well coated and then cool to room temperature.

4. Add mustard, chives, celery, eggs, mayonnaise and pepper to taste to the potatoes and stir gently to combine. Serve at room temperature or chilled, garnished with fresh chives and their flowers, if available.

Yield: 6 servings