friday, march 2nd, 2007

Throughout history onions were often considered peasant food as their heartiness and ability to grow in a wide variety of soil and climate conditions made them accessible to virtually anyone. However, at times the humble onion has also been elevated in status and used not only as a culinary staple but as a medicine, a tool to ward off evil and was even worshiped by ancient civilizations who held it to such lofty heights as to stuff it into the cavities of their kings before burial.

Ancient Egyptians worshiped the onion and viewed its concentric rings as a symbol of divine perfection, representing the layers of the universe and eternity. When the pyramids were being built, Egyptian princesses allegedly spent over 90 tons of gold to purchase onions as a means of sustaining the slaves toiling away beneath the scorching African sun.  An offering of onions to the gods was second in value only to an offering of bread and many Egyptians swore oaths upon onions as a representation of good faith. King Ramses, who died in 1160BC, had his eye sockets stuffed with onions and onion remnants are frequently discovered in the tombs of the pharaohs. It is believed that Egyptians included onions in their tombs as a means of waking the dead once they passed into the afterlife; the strong scent jarring them to take their first breath and usher them into eternity.

Onions also played an important role in the diet and medicinal regimen of Eastern Europeans who used it to heal everything from scurvy and athlete's foot to burns and even the plague. It was also used to ward off evil, and while a member of the onion family, garlic, receives all the Dracula deflecting glory, several varieties of onions were actually used to keep malicious spirits at bay.

Alexander the Great believed onions restored courage and fed copious amounts of them to his armies. Ulysses S. Grant used onion juice as the primary antiseptic to treat his troops during the American civil war. The onion's virtues and stories of its use throughout history are endless. Since it is easily transportable, less perishable than other foods, easily dried and preserved, and has the ability to grow in a variety of soil and climate conditions, onions have often sustained life throughout human history.

It is a bedrock ingredient in countless cuisines of the world. I think our appreciation for this humble vegetable is a bit like our appreciation of clean air; we take it for granted because it is so plentiful and fundamental yet where would we be without it? Of course, most of us (let's hope) would sacrifice the onion before giving up the air in our lungs but imagine where cuisine would be without the onion. How would many dishes begin? What would we substitute in its absence?

The onion is a glorious thing and while we appreciate it most frequently sliced, diced or minced, this recipe celebrates it whole, as a means to hold a savory blend of farro, pine nuts, bacon, herbs and scotch plumped golden raisins. I chose to use Vidalia onions for their sweetness but any variety will do as long as it is large enough to hold a generous amount of filling. I serve these as an accompaniment to roasted chicken but they are also satisfying on their own as a dish to enjoy in this sliver of time between winter and spring.

Farro and Golden Raisin Stuffed Onions 

6 medium to large onions 

3 cups water

1 cup uncooked farro

4 garlic cloves, minced 

1 tablespoon olive oil 

1/2 cup golden raisins, plumped in scotch*

4 strips cooked bacon, crumbled

1/4 cup pine nuts, toasted 

1/4 cup parsley, chopped

1 tablespoon thyme 

1/8 cup tarragon, chopped

1 cup shredded Gruyere** 

salt, to taste 

1. To prepare farro, add to water, season with salt and bring to a boil. Cover and simmer. Begin checking for doneness after twenty minutes. It should be soft but still with a bit of firmness at the center.

2. While the farro cooks, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Carefully remove the dirty portion of the root from the onion, making sure not to cut the root off completely in order to ensure the onion holds together during the boiling process.

3. Once the water boils, add the onions, skins on, to the water. Reduce heat and simmer for about twenty minutes until the onion is soft enough to be easily pierced with the tip of a knife. Remove onions from the water and allow to cool. Once cool, carefully remove the brown skins and cut about 1/2 inch off from the top of the onion. With a fork, scoop out all but two layers of the onion, careful not to puncture the exterior. Chop the interior portion of the onions and reserve both this and the onion cups.

For the filling

4. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. 

4. Bring scotch or spirit of choice to a boil. Turn off heat and add raisins. Allow to plump until they are soft and juicy. Drain.

5.  Sauté the chopped onions and garlic briefly in olive oil. Add the herbs and cook for one minute more.

6. In a large bowl, combine onion mixture, bacon, pine nuts, farro and raisins. Mix well. Season to taste.

7. Stuff each onion cup with the filling until it is level with the onion and top with shredded Gruyere.

8. Bake for approximately twenty minutes or until the cheese is bubbling and beginning to turn a nutty brown color.  

Yield: 6 servings

Notes:

*Scotch is a preferred choice because I like the way its peaty smokiness pairs with the sweetness of the raisins but use a spirit of choice, white wine or chicken stock.

**Gruyere pairs well with the many French ingredients present in this recipe but any good melting cheese will work.