thursday, april 19th, 2007

Piercing winds nip at the bones one minute; a gentle breeze opens the chilled crocus petals the next. It's been a spring of extremes this year, which can lead to indecision in the kitchen. Is it stew weather or is it time to roll out the grill? Should we have braised short ribs or broiled halibut? In this season of the ping-ponging thermometer, this soup covers all bases. The warm, creamy texture is an ideal match for wintry days that refuse to release their stinging grip, but the perky brightness of fennel and green apple announce that hot, beach worthy days are not so far away.

Since ancient times fennel has worn many hats. It has played an integral role in Greek mythology, warded off evil in medieval times and kept the Puritans awake when the drone of a sermon tested their devotion. In ancient Greece the word for fennel was maratho. In 470 BC the Greeks emerged victorious from a decisive battle against the Persians atop a field of fennel. The spot was named Marathon in honor of the revered victory that took place within the licorice perfumed fields of fennel. 

Fennel has always held an esteemed position in Greek mythology. When Prometheus, last of the Titans, stole fire in the form of a burning coal, from Zeus to give to mortals, he hid it in the hollow of a fennel stalk. Fire represented knowledge and the gods were outraged that Prometheus granted such a gift to humanity. For having befriended human beings, Prometheus was chained to a rock high atop a mountain where for the next 30,000 years a vulture arrived each morning and consumed his liver, which regenerated itself by the time the bird returned the following day, thus locking Prometheus into an eternal cycle of torture.

While this is perhaps the most dramatic role fennel has played in history, it is by no means the only one. The ancient Romans' voracious appetite for fennel and the inclusion of it in many of their recipes resulted in fennel's integral role in modern Mediterranean cuisine.  The Romans also believed that serpents consumed the juice of the fennel bulb to improve their eyesight, inspiring Pliny to prescribe the plant for "dimness of human vision". Ancient Romans also chewed fennel as a means of preventing obesity, a behavior that American Puritans also practiced. Not only did Puritans use fennel as an appetite suppressant, they also called it a meeting seed. Meeting seeds were sucked on during long, dry sermons in order to keep parishioners awake.

In medieval times, fennel was used for both medicinal purposes and as a means of warding off evil spirits. The plant was hung over rafters for good luck and tucked into keyholes to keep ghosts and demons from entering the home. Medieval doctors prescribed fennel for many ailments including tooth aches, earaches, snake bites and colic. It is also believed that fennel was one of the pagan Anglo-Saxon god Woden's nine sacred herbs. Woden plays a role in modern times as the word Wednesday is a derivitive of his name. His nine sacred herbs were integral to the medicinal and spiritual practices of 11th and 12th century Anglo-Saxons. The story of Woden and his herbs is recounted in ancient manuscripts such as The Leechbooks of Bald and Lachnunga:

"...a worm came sneaking; then Woden took his sword and struck the adder so that it flew into nine pieces. But out of the worm sprang nine poisons. So Woden took his sword and changed it into nine herbs. These herbs did the wise lord create and sent them into the world for rich and poor, a remedy for all..."

Originating in southern Europe and southwest Asia, fennel is a relative of parsley, carrot, coriander and dill. There are three varieties of fennel; Sweet Fennel with its licorice flavored seeds,  Bronze Fennel which is grown mainly for ornamental purposes and Florence Fennel, the bulbous variety most often used in food preparation. The seeds of Florence Fennel were also one of the three herbs used in the the original 18th century absinthe recipe created by Dr. Pierre Ordinaire in 1792.

The fennel plant reaches heights of up to six feet tall and the entire plant is edible. The seeds are used mainly for medicinal purposes and in the production of essential oils. The plant is a favorite of butterflies and when dried, is an effective insect repellant. Fennel is rich in vitamin C, potassium, iron and calcium. The main producers of fennel today are France, India, Russia and the United States.

In this simple recipe, I have paired fennel with green apple. The tartness of the apple pairs well with the spicy sweetness of the fennel. I finish the soup with cream as it adds a silky richness to the mouth-feel but it can be omitted if desired. This soup provides an ideal way to use all parts of the fennel plant besides the root. Toss in the feathery leaves, hollow stalks and its bulb.

The cheese cones can be made with any dry cheese that retains a bit of its form when heated. Before heating the cones, I like to lay a few herbs on them as I like the way they peek out from the lacy pattern of the cheese and impart their earthy flavor once crumbled into the soup.  The cones add a salty snap to the soup and provide a crunchy texture.

Before the soup is ladled into the bowl, I like to toss in a handful of crumbled bacon and diced green apple as a compliment. Basil chiffonade is also a nice addition. This dish is ideal for Mother Nature's indecisiveness at this time of the year.

Fennel Green Apple Soup

2 cups shredded dry cheese such as Romano or Parmesan
1/2 cup whole herb leaves for garnish such as basil or parsley 

 
1 fennel stalk, all portions save for the root, rough chop
1 green apple, rough chop, plus one half for garnish, small dice
1 celery stalk, rough chop
1 onion, rough chop
2 garlic cloves, minced
water, enough to cover all ingredients
1 cup heavy cream
salt and pepper, to taste 

4 strips bacon, crumbled

For the cheese cones

1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. On a silpat or non-stick sheet tray, sprinkle four discs of cheese. Distribute herbs on top of the discs.

2. Bake cones for approximately 7-9 minutes until cheese is melted and bubbly but has not begun to turn golden brown. 

3. Remove from oven and allow to cool for a minute or two before rolling. Be sure to roll while the cheese is still warm and pliable. Roll each disc into a cone and reserve on a plate lined in paper toweling.  

For the soup 

4. Place fennel, apple, celery, onion and garlic in a pot and add enough water to just cover all ingredients. Bring to a boil and then reduce to a simmer. Simmer uncovered until the vegetables are tender and can be pierced easily with a fork, about forty five minutes.

5. In a blender or food processor, blend soup until it's a fine puree. Season with salt and pepper. Finish with cream.

6. Sprinkle bacon and apple dice at the bottom of a bowl. Ladle soup on top and tuck a cheese cone into the side of the bowl.

Yield: 4 servings