sunday, february 11th, 2007

No one knows the exact origin of hummus but there is no denying that it has been a staple in the Mediterranean diet for thousands of years. Plato and Socrates wrote about the nutritional benefits of hummus and the main ingredient in hummus, the chickpea, was so revered by Romans that Cicero proudly claimed his family name came from the Latin term for it, Cicer arietinum. The Sultan Saladin, a hero in Arabic history who reclaimed Jerusalem from the Crusaders in the 12th century, was also an accomplished chef. One legend attributes the first hummus recipe to him and his Sultan's Forty Spice Variety. This is just a legend and it is certain that the Greeks, who call the dish hommos, would protest this myth as they are also fond of claiming proprietary rights to this endlessly popular recipe. In truth, no one knows for certain where or when the venerated spread was first created and while its exact origins may be lost to antiquity, one thing is certain, it was first developed in the Middle East and spread in its countless forms to the Mediterranean, India, Africa and more recently, to Europe and the United States.

Hummus is so tied to its main ingredient that its name in Arabic means chickpea, also called the garbanzo bean in Spain.  The legume has a high nutritional value and is an excellent source of fiber, iron, vitamin B6, vitamin C and zinc. It is the traditional bedrock ingredient in hummus and one of the oldest ingredients consumed by humanity with its cultivation being traced back 7000 years. Hunter gatherer tribes collected it over ten thousand years ago.

The four traditional ingredients of hummus are the chick pea, a sesame paste called tahini, garlic and lemon but this version has morphed into a variety of recipes that include everything from roasted red peppers, olives, sun-dried tomatoes and even peanut butter. The version here includes artichoke hearts, pine nuts and feta in addition to the traditional staples save for tahini. The feta partners with the lemon to lend a more complex, refined tangy bite and the artichokes act as a mellowing counterpoint.

Hummus is frequently drizzled with olive oil and served with pita. Traditional accompaniments include a wide variety of ingredients and while there are several guaranteed winners, this versatile spread lends itself to experimentation. Here I've paired it with red pepper slices, capers and crusty white bread in place of pita but other ideas include cucumber slices,  carrots, celery, olives, blanched almonds, endive leaves and radishes. The possibilities are endless.

 We may never know who first created hummus, but one thing is certain, its popularity has gained a foothold in virtually all corners of the world and while today it may include everything other than the chickpea, it is this humble legume that we must pay tribute to when enjoying this gratifying and versatile dish.

Feta Artichoke Hummus 

2 cups canned garbanzo beans

1 cup  frozen artichoke hearts

6 cloves garlic

juice of two lemons

1/2 cup crumbled feta

1/2 cup pine nuts 

1/4 cup olive oil

garnish, as desired

1. Combine all ingredients but olive oil in a food processor.  Blend while incorporating the olive oil in a steady stream until the hummus is smooth but not overly creamy.

2. Serve with a drizzle of olive oil and desired accompaniments.

Yield: approximately 5 1/2 cups