wednesday, february 21st, 2007

'Push," he commands. "Push," more insistently now. "Come on, puuush." One might think this is my doctor egging me on through labor. Wrong. It's my sous chef commanding me to speed up the volume of egg rolls I'm producing. Three hundred of the little suckers have to be tightly rolled and at toasty gold attention within the hour for a party the restaurant is catering this evening. I am confident this procedure will lead to egg roll carpal tunnel syndrome but in my focused delirium, the only thing that matters now is timely delivery. In the heat of the moment, meeting the deadline seems much more crucial than child baring could ever be.

This is what sometimes happens in a restaurant. The rest of the world slips away and the only thing between you and the carrot, you and the Meyer lemon, you and the roasted beet, is your knife, which is so sharp it could cut your eyeball if stared at too long. No worries though as there is never time for staring. For breath. For contemplation or pause. It is all about the push, and while it is a justifiable demand in a busy place with high turnover and even higher public expectations, it is such a relief to step into my own kitchen, face down a carrot with my home knife which I keep a little duller, just because I can, and dice at my leisure or when I'm feeling exceptionally rebellious, not dice at all but hack away to produce something I'm beginning to adore; a rustic cut.

In honor of Chinese New Year, I slowly, leisurely made egg rolls at home. This recipe is a variation on those which we make zillions of at the restaurant and although far from a traditional Chinese egg roll, it retains the shape, crunchy golden texture and flavorful interior of those that might be served at a Chinese New Year celebration.

Chinese New Year is the most important holiday for Chinese people around the world. It lasts for three weeks and is based on the lunar, not Gregorian calendar. It begins on the 24th day of the 12th lunar month. On this day, it is believed that various gods ascend to heaven to pay homage to the Jade Emperor, the supreme Taoist Deity. Not only is the intention to pay their respects, but also to report on household affairs going on down below on earth. Many Chinese burn ritualistic paper money on this night to pay for the travel expenses of the gods. They also smear malt sugar on one of the travelling deities that many have statues of in their homes, the Kitchen Spirit, to ensure he reports favorably on the family or, if all else fails, to bribe him to keep silent.

Chinese New Year is based upon many traditions and legends, one of the most famous being that of the evil and ferocious beast Nien, who is believed to eat people on New Year's Eve. To keep Nien at bay during the night, red paper couplets are hung on doors, torches are lit and firecrackers are set off as it is believed Nien fears the color red, light, and loud noises. The night is celebrated with family and friends by passing out lucky money in red envelopes to children, enjoying a sumptuous and elaborate feast and attempting to stay awake all night, lights ablaze. In ancient times this practice was intended to drive away Nien but today it's more an excuse to spend time with loved ones who frequently travel long distances to reunite with their families for this holiday.

Chinese New Year is a joyous, colorful and festive event that accomplishes what all holidays should; it brings together families and friends, celebrates and honors tradition, and inspires a delicious, decadent meal. In the spirit of the holiday, I offer these tasty little egg rolls. Egg roll wrappers can be purchased in most grocery stores these days or at Asian food markets. These are bite size and make a nice appetizer or hors dourve and I therefore cut the egg roll wrapper into smaller squares of four. However, they can also be served larger and then sliced up into sections as a nice accompaniment to a salad or soup. For a dipping sauce, I like plum sauce as its sweetness pairs well with the tang of the goat cheese. I also serve a quick mixture of soy sauce, scallion, orange juice, honey and a pinch of red pepper flake for those who prefer a saltier compliment, but they pair well with most anything so get creative. Be sure to keep the wrappers that are not laid out on the work surface covered with a damp cloth as they dry out quickly. The key to getting them to stick and hold is to brush them with egg yolk during every stage of the process. This will ensure that they hold together and remain tightly rolled and will also lend a toasty, golden brown color. Most importantly, enjoy the process and make them at your leisure!

 
Goat Cheese Pecan Egg Rolls

For the filling

1 pound goat cheese, softened

3/4 cup finely chopped pecans

1 egg yolk

1/8 cup heavy cream

1 shallot, minced

2 teaspoons ginger, finely minced

1 tablespoon fresh orange zest

2 Thai red chilis, seeds removed, finely minced*

2 teaspoons cumin powder

1 tablespoon fresh sage, finely minced

For the wrappers

8 large egg roll wrappers, cut into four squares each

egg yolks, for the wash**

1/2 gallon oil for frying***

1. Combine all ingredients for the filling in a large bowl and mix well.

2. Lay three of the cut egg roll squares on a clean work surface and brush generously with egg wash. At the very top of the squares, place a small dollop of cheese mixture (approximately 2 teaspoons) and form into a long cylindrical shape.****

3. Roll the wrapper once over the cheese mixture and brush with more egg wash.

4. Fold the sides of the wrapper around the cheese and brush the entire surface with egg wash.

5. Roll the egg roll up and seal the the edge with a final brush of egg wash. Place the rolls on a dry sheet tray. They can remain out while the rest of the rolls are made and it is fine if they dry out.

6. Heat oil in a heavy gauge pot. It is hot enough when a drop of water sizzles when it hits the surface of the oil.

7. Gently place four or five rolls into the oil using a flat strainer. Do not overcrowd by adding too many at a time. Allow the egg rolls to swim as they fry until they are golden brown. The egg rolls will continue to brown once removed from the oil so remove them as soon as they have achieved a light golden brown color. Drain on dry paper toweling. Allow a few minutes between batches for oil recovery time.

8. Continue the process until all egg rolls have been fried. Serve hot with dipping sauce.

Yield: 32 miniature egg rolls

Notes:

*If Thai chilis are too hot for you, omit them. If they are not available, use a substitute such as 1/2 jalapeno or 1/2 habenero, seeds removed.

**Since a generous amount of egg yolk wash is required, I suggest at least 8 yolks

***Use oil with a high smoke point such as peanut or vegetable oil 

****A method to achieve this shape is to use two spoons and form something called a quenelle: place a small scoop of cheese mixture on one spoon and with the other spoon, move into the first as if scooping out a ball of ice cream, picking up the cheese as you do it. Repeat the process a few more times and a football shape will emerge.