For many of us, our first introduction to phyllo dough is via the beguiling, syrupy seduction of baklava; every bite, cloying, nuanced bliss of endlessly layered sheets of phyllo clinging to each other via amber ribbons of syrup or honey flecked with toasted nuts. It's sticky sweet pastry heaven and a fine way to show off the virtue of phyllo. For many years, my relationship with phyllo dough was a one note affair, and while I am always more than happy to celebrate phyllo's virtues with a baklava fix, it was not until my friend's Moroccan grandmother from Casablanca used the paper thin layers of dough to prepare bisteeya, that I made a commitment to it for life. I appreciated at last its versatility and while my affection for baklava will never wane, I now prefer to incorporate phyllo into savory dishes. Its buttery snap adds dimension to virtually anything and now that I've mastered the phyllo speed test, its many savory possibilities are endless.
Phyllo means "leaf" in Greek and while the Grecians are credited with the creation of phyllo in the paper thin version we know today, it was initially introduced in Turkey during the Ottoman Empire. This early version of phyllo was first mentioned in the 11th century in the Diwan Lughat-al-Turks, a dictionary of Turkish phrases by Mahmud Kashgari. Early Turkish phyllo was made with the same three ingredients of wheat flour, water and a small amount of oil or butter as it is today. In its earliest manifestation, phyllo dough was much thicker than its modern counterpart, but it retained its flakiness and impressive rise when baked due to the many layers folded into the dough during preparation. This version was similar to puff pastry or strudel dough and today phyllo is still compared to both as they all incorporate the same three primary ingredients and ascend to heavenly feathery heights when baked.
It's the gluten in the wheat flour that allows phyllo dough to stretch to such impressively long, thin sheets during preparation. As it is pulled and stretched, the gluten in the flour does not break, but is instead durable enough to extend into long, thin strands that give phyllo its nearly transparent appearance.
The creation of phyllo is a labour intensive process and until 1940s, the only way to form it was by hand. Thankfully, for those of us who love phyllo but do not have the patience or the time to spend an afternoon pulling and prodding it into submission, Le Conie Stiles of Seattle, Washington received a patent for the first ever phyllo-stretching machine. This invention paved the way for the mass production of phyllo dough and its subsequent distribution in supermarkets and grocery stores soon thereafter opened the doors of phyllo possibility to home chefs everywhere.
While my heart will always count the bisteeya as my favorite vehicle to phyllo paradise, the quick and versatile phyllo cups in this recipe rank a close second. Incredibly simple to prepare, they can be made a day ahead which makes them handy little baskets to receive whatever form of gastronomic treats your culinary imagination can conjure. Festive and unexpected, they would make an ideal addition to an Easter feast and while the stuffing here is a savory one, a sweet filling such as honey kissed fruit with a dollop of mascarpone would make a lovely finish to a meal. I have served phyllo baskets in countless ways. A few of my favorites besides this recipe include poached figs with arugula and proscuitto or diced green apples with toasted walnuts and brie. The possibilities are endless.
I think the addition of phyllo dough always lends a meal a little more elegant refinement and even a bit of whimsy. It cloaks whatever ingredients its dressing, whether it be something as time consuming as a bisteeya or as simple as a fillet of phyllo wrapped halibut, in golden distinction. It's delicate flakiness contributes buttery grace to the table and without phyllo's existence, we would be forced to endure a terrible, shudder-inducing place; a world without baklava.
Baked Goat Cheese & Roasted Vegetable Phyllo Baskets
This Italian inspired recipe is simple to prepare, but the different elements each contribute unique flavors that build upon each other to create a colorful, nuanced appetizer. Capers add bright zippiness and the basil freshness to the earthy depth of the roasted vegetables. The goat cheese binds everything together in creamy tanginess and the toasted pine nuts round it all off with their subtle golden nuttiness. The phyllo cups themselves are not only fun and unusual serving dishes but also add a crisp buttery snap of texture. Drizzle the plate with a ribbon of syrupy, aged balsamic and garnish with a side of fresh greens such as velvety mache or peppery arugula and this appetizer is one you will find yourself returning to again and again when the meal calls for something festive, yet quick and simple too.
8 sheets 18" x 12" phyllo dough
1/4 cup melted butter2 red and 2 yellow peppers, roasted, peeled and cut into 1/4 inch slices
1 large white onion, roasted and cut into 1/4 inch slices
12 large basil leaves, cut into chiffonade
olive oil, as needed
salt and freshly ground black pepper, as needed
1 large log of goat cheese, sliced into 1/4 inch rounds, to equal twelve rounds
36 grape tomatoes, roasted
1/8 cup toasted pine nuts
3 tablespoons capers
high quality, aged balsamic vinegar, as needed
greens for garnish such as mache or arugula
for the phyllo baskets
1. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. When working with phyllo, keep the sheets not in use covered with a damp towel to prevent them from drying out. Place one sheet of phyllo on a clean, dry work surface and brush the entire surface with a thin layer of melted butter. Add another layer of phyllo on top of the first and brush with the butter. Repeat with two more sheets until there are four layers of phyllo. Cut the layers into evenly measured squares of six and place each square into a muffin tin, crimping the edges a bit to form a ruffled look. Repeat this process with the four remaining sheets of phyllo dough until a total of twelve baskets are formed. Bake at 350 degrees until the baskets are golden brown around their edges.
phyllo baskets before they are baked
for the basket filling
2. Toss the roasted peppers and onions with the basil chiffonade, olive oil, salt and pepper. Evenly divide the roasted vegetable filling amongst the twelve baked phyllo baskets, keeping them in the muffin tin to lend stability. Top each with a goat cheese round. Return the baskets with their filling and cheese round to the oven for an additional five to eight minutes, or until the goat cheese is soft and slightly toasted.
to serve
3. Drizzle six plates with ribbons of balsamic. Place two baskets on each plate along with a handful of greens. Top each goat cheese round with three roasted grape tomatoes and sprinkle with a few toasted pine nuts and capers. Serve warm.